Sizes 8/60-9/65 (very lightest weight-silks, batiste, chiffon, fine lace, and transparent fabrics), 10/70 (lightweight-challis, satin, polyesters, interlocks, and jersey), 11/75 (light-medium weights-elasticized fabric, percale, and 2-way stretch and powder net), and 12/80 (medium weights-broadcloth). Some types of material such as velvet may need a smaller size needle.
The type of fiber determines how you should choose your needle. For example, if the fiber is thick, such as cotton or linen, then you should use larger needles than if the fiber is thin, such as silk or rayon. The amount of fabric you are sewing also affects what size needle to use. If you are making a small project, like a doll's dress, you can use a smaller needle than if you were making a large item, such as a tablecloth. It is important to use a needle that is appropriate for the job at hand. A professional seamstress would not make a bedspread with a needle smaller than what is used for the finest silks.
A Table of Contents
|Sewing Machine Needle Type||Needle Size||Fabric Type|
|Ball point needles||80 (12)||Interlock, Lacoste|
|90 (14)||Medium heavy knits, double knit|
|Stretch needles||75 (11)||Light lycra, elasticised fabrics|
|90 (14)||Elastic, heavier lycra, elasticised fabrics|
When choosing a fabric for a hand-sewing project, choose one with a light to medium weight and a nice weave or interlocking of the fibers. The fabric should be comfortable to work with and provide enough warmth or insulation if needed. A hand-stitched garment will look best if you use colors that match or contrast with the color scheme of the rest of your wardrobe.
There are several different methods used by sewers to create a hand-stitched garment. Some prefer a simple straight stitch while others like myself use a zigzag stitch to add some detail. Whatever method you choose it's important to go slowly and take your time so the stitching looks even and doesn't pull too tight.
A hand-stitched garment will last longer than one machine stitched due to the lack of holes along the back and side seams. Also, hand-stitching adds more value to the piece which means it can be sold for more later if needed.
Hand-stitched garments are not easy to make and require skill and practice to get right, but they are very rewarding when done well. There are many different projects available online and in sewing books that can help you learn how to stitch things up close without using a machine. Try something new each time you sew so you do not get bored!
A satin woven polyester fabric that is lightweight and lustrous, with a soft drape. It is ideal for both dresses and tops and comes in a variety of colors. The fabric is durable and easy to clean.
Micro satins are actually smaller weaves of the satin weave pattern. There are two different types of microsatins: mini-micro and fine micro. Mini-micro microsatins are 44 inches (111 cm) wide and finer micros are 55 inches (139 cm) wide. Both fabrics have a similar look and feel but using a different size warp and weft threads will produce a different look for your project.
Mini-micro microsatins are perfect for making small items such as aprons and dishcloths because their size makes them efficient to handle. Fine microsatins are best for larger projects because they aren't as tight and itchy as mini-micro microsatins.
Satins are very shiny surfaces that reflect light when viewed from the right angle, which is why they're often used for clothing and accessories that need to appear bright and colorful. However, not all sattins are the same. There are three main types of satins: plain, shantung, and silk.
When sewing with delicate materials such as satin or silk, use a little needle such as an 8/60, 9/65, or 10/70. Use a bigger needle, 11/75, 12/80, or 14/90 sharp needles, for sewing with thick, densely woven materials like denim or corduroy. Use 16 sharp needles while stitching with thick cloth.
Taffeta and satin are two popular bridal fabric choices. Taffeta, according to wedding fabric experts, is a firmer fabric that may give bridal dresses more structure. Because satin is a brighter and more limpid fabric, it is ideal for wedding gowns that are designed to cling more tightly to the body.
Look for "washer linen" or a rayon/linen combination of 45–50%. The two fibers work really well together. Linen is rough and stiff, yet it keeps you cool in the heat. Rayon has a very soft hand, but it is also quite drapey. If you want to make a more durable fabric for heavy use, look for cotton or a fiber blend.
Linen is known for its durability and ease of care. It tends to be more expensive than cotton, though.
There are several types of linen including lawn, burlap, and sisal. Lawn is most commonly found in household fabrics like sheets, pillowcases, and towels. Burlap and sisal are used primarily for clothing. All three types have a natural texture and color, but they can be dyed as well.
Lawn is made from the harvested leaves of the plant. It is white or yellow in color with darker green stripes caused by the sun. Before it is used as a textile, the grass is cut, dried, and shredded. This process removes any possible remnants of other plants or seeds and makes lawn safe for commercial use.
Burlap is dark green with brownish-black streaks. It is made from the shredded bark of certain trees. Sisal is a fiber produced by the agave plant. It is white or pink in color with a thick, strong strand running through it.